Pyrenean Haute route is one of the most difficult, but at the same time also one of the most beautiful multi-day treks in Europe. Starting at the Atlantic ocean leading You over the highest peaks in the Pyrenees bringing You to the Mediterranean sea. Over a month-long high-altitude path is stretching over three countries visiting it´s most secret and beautiful parts. If You are searching for life-changing experience Pyrenean Haute Route is the adventure to go for.
- Download the GPS file to your device HERE. The file includes the entire route and all refuges and great places to pitch a tent.
- Google maps – route + Mountain huts HERE
- Download full elevation chart data + trekking time in excel file HERE.
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Content
Introduction
Pyrenean Haute route as known as Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne or HRP is a long-distance walking route in the Pyrenees. The entire route is approximately 800 kilometers (differs by the detours and alternative routes) and around 35.000 meters of ascent. The fastest time to cross the Pyrenean main ridge was in 8 days (Kilian Jornet), but normal trekkers are covering this distance in 30 -45 days. HRP is actually the harder version of GR10 (France) or GR11 (Spain) and leads mostly over the ridges and high mountains often steeply ascending and descending. The highest peak on the trail is unfortunately not the highest point of Pyrenees, but the Pic Perdiguére (3222m). HRP is constantly is crossing Spanish and French boarder and is also entering Andorra on its way. Most of the trekkers are starting at the Atlantic Ocean at Hendaye following the route to east to Mediterranean sea to Banyuls-Sur-Mer.
Useful information
Best time to go Pyrenean Haute Route
The best time to attempt HRP is between June and September when the sky is the most bright. Of course, in summertime get ready for really warm temperatures even in high altitudes. Prepare to start very early morning to avoid enormous heat over the mid-day. Despite the summer Mediterranean climate in higher altitudes temperatures can drop below 0 degrees Celsius at night.
From November to March Most of the trails are covered in snow so doing HRP in winter can be possible, but very hard. The months with the most precipitation are April and May in Spring as well as October and November in Autumn.
Where to stay?
Many trekkers are planning to go hut-to-hut and it´s possible. In most of the staffed huts, You will stay in common dormitories for 15 EUR per night Breakfast is for an additional 5-8 EUR. In the peak season, some mountain hut can fill up quickly. Unstaffed are usually for free. The sleeping bag, as well as the mattress, is a must.
For adventurous souls, I recommend taking a tent and sleeping bag. Free camping is generally accepted and so-called bivouacking is tolerated on HRP. Use common sense and build a tent later in the day and pack your stuff early in the morning. Definitely don´t leave any garbage behind You.
What to pack?
The essential gear is sturdy shoes supporting properly your ankle. Trekking poles are a must, especially in descending sections. I consider as essential also quality maps or GPS with the marked route. GPS route for download is HERE. Remember HRP is not marked like GR10 and GR11 and navigation is sometimes very challenging.
Depending on the way you decide to go You will need different gear, but definitely take light clothes to warm weather as well as clothes for cold. Cap and gloves along with a rainproof jacket is a must. Don´t forget to take a sleeping bag and mattress and don´t expect You will always get a place in the refuge. Personally I took all hiking gear like tent, cooking stuff.
Food is a special section. Prepare to have always enough food because we had some remote days when we haven´t found any shop for more than 6 days!!! Descending far from HRP just to replenish the food is silly.
There is plenty of water in the mountains and generally safe. Of course, don´t take water under grazing cattle or in the stream down the village, but on HRP is plenty of lakes, rivers, and waterfalls providing enough fresh drinkable water. When You plan to ascent to any higher elevations always replenish water before the ascent. There are no streams up on ridges.
Fauna and Flora on Pyrenean Haute route
Fauna
The most common animals in the Pyrenees are horses, sheep, as well as grazing all around the mountains and they will accompany You almost daily. You will definitely encounter many Marmots and Vultures. Deers and badgers are common too, but not to be seen so often. An unforgettable inhabitant of Pyrenees is also a Brown Bear, but You must be really lucky to see one.
Donkeys posing on HRP 
Grasshoppers everywhere
The extraordinary endemic is a Pyrenean shepherd dog called “Pastou”. Especially bred dog to protect and help hśheppherd with controlling of sheep. One YOu hear it in the valley be very cautious as encountering this massive dog can be very dangerous and he doesn´t respect anyone, only his sleeping master.
Flora
The flora of the Pyrenees is overwhelming and is always much to see. Depending on the season and altitude You will see dozens of different trees, a variety of rock and meadow plants
flowers on HRP 
Meadow flowers
Geography
Mountains on Pyrenean Haute Route
The Pyrenees stretch between the Atlantic ocean and the Mediterranean sea on the border between Spain, France and including entire micro country Andorra. It creates a natural barrier between the dry semi-desert of Spain and green fertile hills of France.
Higher parts of rocky Pyrenees consists of exposed \crystaline rocks as the other parts are made of limestone formed by glaciers in the past. Unfortunately today the Pyrenees don´t have any glaciers (just very small leftovers of snow patches which are not melting in the summer).
Sharp peaks are rising over 3000 meters with the highest peak Mount Aneto (3404 m).
Lakes, Rivers, and Waterfalls
The hydrosphere of the Pyrenees is really a boasting part of the mountain range. Uncountable amount of deep blue lakes, green reservoirs, and crystal clear ponds in every valley give this place uniqueness.
Transparent meandering rivers and clean streams often turning into waterfalls are a great source of fresh water. There are plenty of sources of the river starting here and flowing down to each side of the ridge. On south mostly flowing to Spanish Rio Ebro and on the north to Franch L´Adour, Garonne, and to Ariége.
While walking HRP You will have enough source of water, but anytime YOu will hike anywhere to highers elevations always take some with You.
HRP interactive elevation profile
Download full elevation chart data + trekking time in excel file HERE.
Pyrenean Haute Route Day-by-day Guide
This guide is based on my personal experience while trekking Pyrenean Haute Route in 2012. As there are many detours and alternatives on the route You do not have to follow exactly the route I describe, but it´s simply wonderful!
Basque country
Day 1: Henday – Col d´Ibardin
Starting from the shore of the Pacific ocean in the town Henday. The HRP is leading on the French-Spanish border over the first pass Col d´Osin (374m) to the next pass Col d´Ibardin (317m) where should have been a restaurant, but we found just a ghost town.
Time: 4 h 30 min
Ascent: 374 m
Descent: -57 m
Day 2: Col d´Ibardin – Ordoki
Continue over the peak La Rheuna (900m), or bypass it directly to Col de Lizuniaga. Then ascent to Col de Nabarlatz and enter Spain for the first time. Continue over Col de Bagacheta (793m) to village Ordoki.
Time: 10 h 30 min
Ascent: 563 m
Descent: -580 m
Day 3: Ordoki – Les Aldudes
Take a bath in a nearby stream and after continue to village Arizkun. Where You can replenish not only food but also other stuff as this town is the first civilized place from the start. Take an ascending typical Pyrenean Haute Route goat path from Arizkun to Burga (872m) and then descent over Col de Berdaritz to the village Les Aldudes.
Time: 6 h 30 min
Ascent: 592 m
Descent: -522 m
Day 4: Les Aldudes – Refuge Izandorre
Ascending in the morning on the unmarked steep track up to the summit Rediute de Lindux (1220m) which is also the first ascent over 1000 meter on HRP. Continue over the pass Roncevaux (1057m) and to another pass Port de Cize (1430m) to refuge Izandorre. It´s just a stone house for trekkers on Camino de Santiago where You can spend a night for free in a dry place.
Time: 7 h 30 min
Ascent: 1317 m
Descent: -382 m
Ref. Izandorre 
Peak from pass Roncevaux
Day 5: Refuge Izandorre – Chalet Pedro
Follow an easy route to Col d´Errozaté (1076m) and then prepare for the steep ascent to reach a green valley with a river. Follow the river to the valley and ascent to mount Egurgui (1247m). Be careful during the descent to not miss the route to chalet Pedro which can be Your next place to overnight.
Time: 9 h 00 min
Ascent: 783 m
Descent: -1098 m
Day 6: Chalet Pedro – Port de Larrau
In the morning go to Col Bagargui, where you can find a restaurant on the way. Follow the path leading across many insignificant passes and to ascent to the first 2000 meters mountain Pic d´Orhy (2017m). The reward for the effort is breathtaking 360 degrees views. Descend down to Port de Larrau which is the road pass between France and Spain as well as a place for tents.
Time: 8 h 30 min
Ascent: 1046 m
Descent: -451 m
Day 7: Port de Larrau – Refugio Belagua
From Port de Larrau You will follow the path on the ridge passing many passes and bypassing mountains. Cross Col de Bimbalette to reach Port d´Ourdayté, where You will find an abandoned hotel looking like a haunted house. The day can finish in again abandoned Refugio de Belagua, where you can sleep inside for free. Fortunately, this day is not so difficult due to the relative leveled path despite the surrounding mountains are fairly high.
Time: 8 h 00 min
Ascent: 227m
Descent: -384 m
Day 8: Refugio Belagua – Lescun
Get ready and take enough water with you as the local supplier are weak in this section. Valley views of limestone walls will guide you to Col d´ Anaye (2011m), and to close pic d´Arlas (2044m). From this point, you will start to descent to Source de Marmitou, where you can replenish Your water and continue descending 1000 meters down to Plateau de Sanchèse (1090m). You will soon reach the town Lescun (900m) where are a couple of options of accommodation after over a week of poor or no possibilities sleeping inside and having no shower.
Time: 8 h 00 min
Ascent: 583 m
Descent: -1111 m
Descent from Col d´Anaye 
Cheese production farm in Lescun
National Park Pyrenees Occidental
Day 9: Lescun – Pla d´Espélunguére
Before leaving Lescun to make sure you will buy enough food for the next few days in the wilderness. Entering the national park Occidentales is starting by ascending through grazing animals to Col d´Pau (1934m). From this point on the easy hiking days are over as You will enter the real Pyrenean Haute route with big daily ascents and descents Take a leveled path to Refugio d´Arlet around Pyrenean horses as well as sheep and pigs. You will have enough time this day to cross col d´Lapachouaou to a wonderful place for tenting at Pla d´Espélunguére.
Time: 9 h 30 min
Ascent: 1200 m
Descent: -600 m
national park Occidentales
Day 10: Pla d´Espélunguére – Refuge Piombie
Very beautiful and the difficult day starts with an ascent to Pass de l´Echélle where you get lovely pictures of Pyrenean Haute route and surrounding mountains. The Lac d´Estaens is an amazing lake in the valley. The next waypoint is a Spanish – French border Col du Somport and Skiing center Astun. Continue to the pass Col de Moines and enjoy one of the best attractions of the trail – Pic du Midi Ossau. Be aware of hungry donkey begging for the food while having an outdoor lunch. Cross the Col de Peyreget and descent to the Refuge Piombie, where You can either spend a night inside or build a tent outside.
Time: 9 h 00 min
Ascent: 1840 m
Descent: -1210 m
Day 11: Refuge Piombie – Refuge de Larribet
In the morning descend down from the refuge to the road (1350m), where You can expect hard ascend to Col d´Arrius (2260m). Stop for a while and enjoy surrounding Pyrenean walls. The route follows the narrow path with dangerous steep screes to the valley, and the only safety is a sloppy chain in the wall. You will soon reach the Refugio Arrémoule (2035m) next to the lake. The ascent from the lake up to the Col du Palas. Then You will have to cross also snowfields leading to the pass Port du Levédon (2615m) which can be considered more like climbing than hiking. From the pass descend down to Refuge de Larribet (2070m) to spend a night.
Time: 7 h 00 min
Ascent: 1265 m
Descent: -1225 m
Day 12: Refuge de Larribet – Refugio Vallon
Descend down to the valley to Cabane de Doumblas (1563m) is only in order to enjoy brutal steep scree ascent over Port de la Peyre-Saint-Martin (2295m) to Col de Cambales (2706m). The hard day is finalized with a steep descent to Refugio Vallon which is the ideal place to overnight.
Time: 6 h 00 min
Ascent: 1143 m
Descent: -1327 m
Day 13: Refugio Vallon – Gavarnie
The hardcore day starts by ascending rocky sections to Col d´Artaille (2528m) and following to another pass Col des Mulets (2591m). Take time and Enjoy great landscapes before descending down to Refuge des Oulettes to enjoy another spectacular view of the glacier flowing down from mount Vignemale. Another steep ascent leads you to Horquette de Ossaue (2734m), where I recommend to take down the backpack and ascent to the 3017-meter hight Petite Vignemale. The next stop can be at Refuge d´Baysellance or descending down to the famous stop on Pyrenean Haute Route, the tourist town Gavarnie.
Time: 9 h 15 min
Ascent: 1657 m
Descent: -2092 m
Day 14: Gavarnie – Cabane d´Aguillous
Before starting the next day také enough food for another few days in wild nature and then follow the marked trail to Refugio Espueguettes (2027m). Definitely make a stop and enjoy the views over Pic du Taillon where you can see also the tallest waterfall in the Pyrenees. Cross the pass Horquette d´Allans (2430m), and reach the reservoir Lac des Gloriettes (1668m) for a refreshment. The next section is a descent to Heás (1500m), where you can stay overnight or continue the difficult ascent to Cabane d´Aguillous (2240m) to run away from the heat back to mountains.
Time: 8 h 00 min
Ascent: 1855 m
Descent: -980 m
Gavanie 
Lac des Gloriettes (1668m)
Day 15: Cabane d´Aguillous – Passo de los Caballos
The first half of the day is very pleasant without any big elevation changes crossing high altitude passes as Horquette de Heás (2608m), Horquette de Cheermentas (2439m). Passing the Refuge Barroude, and ascend to Port de Barroude (2537m) is also not very difficult. The worst part of the day comes with 1100 meters descent and following 1300 meters ascend to Passo de los Caballos (2346m), where you can find a small stone hut to spend a night. Don´t forget to equip yourself with enough water for an ascent when hot and dry.
Time: 9 h 30 min
Ascent: 1630 m
Descent: -1519 m
Lake platteau near Horquette de Heás 
Horquette de Heás (2608m)
Day 16: Passo de los Caballos – Refugio de la Soula
Descent down to the valley turn left on the crossroads of two gravel roads and ascent to Refugio Viados. A good place to rest, enjoy views to Posets (3371m) and refresh before 1000 meters ascend to Port d´Aygues Tortes (2690m). Expect the hard ascent on steep scree to the saddle. Also don´t expect any pleasant descent to Refugio de la Soula (1690m). The refuge is a good place to overnight.
Time: 8 h 30 min
Ascent: 1140 m
Descent: -1796 m
Day 17: Refugio de la Soula – Refugio Portillon
As soon as You wake up the trail will ascent steeply up on the snow over 1100 meters up to Col des Gourgs-blance (2877m). Nice high altitude walk will guide You on the up-and-down path over two passes Col du Pluvometre (2860m) and Tusse de Moutarque (2889m). From this place be careful to not lose the path and don´t descent directly to the reservoir. Makes sure you will follow the path to Refugio Portillon (2571m) to stay around or inside for a night.
Time: 7 h 30 min
Ascent: 1216 m
Descent: -335 m
Col du Pluvometre 
Tusse de Moutarque
Day 18: Refugio Portillon – Plan d´Aiguallut
Today You will have a chance to ascent to the highest summit on Entire HRP. You will get a great reward, so I propose to do it. Start the technical difficult ascent on a stone steep scree to Col. Supériur de Literole (3049m). From this point follow the ridge to the summit Pic Perdiguére (3222m). Look around have a great time and descent the same way back to the pass. Follow the path descending to Portal de Remune (2830m) and also long descent to Hospital de Benasque (1760m) which is the starting point for Pico d´Antero the highest point of entire Pyrenees. The last section of the day was the ascent to Plan d´Aiguallut (2100m) for overnight.
Time: 8 h 30 min
Ascent: 992 m
Descent: -1462 m
Day 19: Plan d´Aiguallut – Port de Rius
Enjoy morning watching marmots and other fauna. Directly in the morning, a long and difficult ascent is awaiting you leading to Tuc de Mulleres (3010m). Look at the long queue to Pico d´Aneto and be happy that the Pyrenean Haute Route is avoiding this summit. On the way down to Hospital de Vielha (1626m) eat some blueberries, then refresh yourself and on the way up to Port de Rius (2320m) beware of “Pastou” the aggressive Pyrenean dogs 🙂
Time: 9 h 30 min
Ascent: 1604 m
Descent: -1384 m
Day 20: Port de Rius – Ref. De Colomers
Today´s Etape is maybe the most scenic part of the Pyrenean Haute Route. Passing high altitude plateau with plenty of amazing lakes. You can enjoy the best views from Collado d´Estany de Mar (2468m) which is a heaven on the earth. The next stop is Refugio Restance (2010m) on the shore of a deep blue lake. Go up to Col de Crestada (2475m) and also cross the Port de Caldes (2560m) from where it´s only 1,5 hour of hike to Refugio de Colomers (2135m) to spend a night.
Time: 7 h 00 min
Ascent: 698 m
Descent: -883 m
Day 21: Ref. De Colomers – Salardú
An easy task to pass. Go down to Salardú find Yourself a home, wash all Your clothes and take the rest, buy food, fruits and also drink. Drink a lot of Oruja de Hierbas! You deserve it after weeks eating mostly dry food and nuts.
Time: 3 h 30 min
Ascent: 0 m
Descent: – 935 m
Day 22: Salardú – Alos de Isil
After almost a rest day You will feel refreshed to continue the expedition. Start hard ascent over 1200 meters over the lake Estany de Baciver (2120m) to take a bath and then literally climb to the pass (2500m). Continue to Estany d´Airoto (2190m) and Col de Clot de Moredo (2420m). After this point descent hardly down to the valley Alos de Isil (1270m).
Time: 10 h 00 min
Ascent: 1430 m
Descent: – 1460 m
Day 23: Alos de Isil – Noarre
Another Etape so another hardcore to ascent. Climbing slowly to Col de la Cornella (2485m) must be done early in the morning to avoid strong sunbeams. Continue over Col de Curios as well as Col de Calberanle (2610m). The path leads down to metal hut or if You want refuge Enric Pujol (2290m) which is just an emergency shelter and occupied so we had to continue down to Noarre (1600m).
Time: 8 h 00 min
Ascent: 1397 m
Descent: – 1067 m
Andorra
Day 24: Noarre – Ref. de Cinquantenari
Get ready for a hard day with a lot of ascents and quite difficult navigation. The first big one is to Coll de Certascan (2605m) and then expect a long descent over Ref. Certascan (2240m), lake Estany Romedo de Baix (2020m) and Pla de Boavi (1475m). Stay strong and climb 1000 elevation meters to Coll de Sellente (2485m) and continue just a few kilometers to orange metal house Refugio de Cinquantenari (2438m) where You will stay overnight.
Time: 10 h 00 min
Ascent: 2015 m
Descent: – 1177 m
Day 25: Ref. de Cinquantenari – Valley of Riu Pollós
From the refuge, You will have to take the path down to the bridge Puente de Molinassa (1800m) to have a reason to go up again over Refugio de Baiau to Port de Baiau (2757m) which is the border between Spain and Andorra. Go on and enter this interesting small kingdom with Amazing nature as well as architecture. Descend to the valley over Ref. De Coma Pedrosa (2260m) to unnamed Platteau in the valley of Riu Pollós, which I recommend because it´s a lovely spot for camping with grazing horses around.
Time: 8 h 30 min
Ascent: 1157 m
Descent: – 1695 m
Day 26: Valley of Riu Pollós – Cabana coms de Jan
Expect a hard Andorran day as well as steep ascents and descents on difficult terrain. Statt an ascent to Pic de Clot de Cavall (2587m). Following steep and long descent to the town Llort (1450m) will punish Your knees. Then follow the path next to the road to el Serrat. From El Serrat ascent the back to the mountains to Collada des Meners (2713m) and not far away from here you will spend a night near or in picturesque and unstaffed stone refuge Cabana coms de Jan (2220m).
Time: 8 h 30 min
Ascent: 1950 m
Descent: – 1630 m
Day 27: Cabana coms de Jan – Etang de Couart
Today You will exit Andorra and enter France again and the area of Catalonia. There are only two easy ascends today, the first is to Pass Serra de Cabana Sorda (2661m). The second part of the day is the descent to the plateau and small ascent to Port de Foutargente (2260m) and then again a little down to crossroads. Here take an inclining path to Port de L´Albe (2535m). For adventure and nature-loving people, I recommend staying in a tent near lake Etany de Court, or descent to the town which is another 3 hours of descent.
Time: 7 h 00 min
Ascent: 1186 m
Descent: – 1176 m
Spanish Catalonia and French Languedoc-Roussillon
Day 28: Etang de Couart – L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré
An easy 3 hours descent from Stany de Couart to L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré (1500m). Find a great spot to sleep and eat to gain back all energy for the last couple of days on the Pyrenean Haute Route.
Time: 3 h 00 min
Descent: – 730 m
Day 29: L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré – Bolquére
After a big rest, you can run up over Ref. Des Bésines (2104m) to Col de Coume d´Angel (2470m). This place is heavenly beautiful, so take your time and a small supper here. The walls of Pic Carlit falling down to Etany de Lanoux (2213m) is breathtaking. Continue from the lake to Portella de la Grave (2426m) and follow to Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses (2005m), where you can refresh. The place of overnight is in Bolquére (1620m).
Time: 9 h 30 min
Ascent: 1247 m
Descent: – 1063 m
Day 30: Bolquére – Ref. d’Ull de Ter
From Bolquére walk one hour to Eyne. The hard ascend part start from Eyne (1560m) to Col d’Eyne (2680m) and following the ascent to Pic de Eyne and to Pic de Nou Fonts (2861m). Then you follow the ridge with great views over Col de Noufonts (2651m) and Col de Noucreus (2799m). The last ascent to Refuge d’Ull de Ter (2220m) is the easy part.
Time: 7 h 15 min
Ascent: 1449 m
Descent: – 849 m
Day 31: Ref. d’Ull de Ter – Ref. Des Cortales
Start the hike over Porteille del Caillan (2386m) to Collade des Roques Blanches (2252m) to Ref. de Mariailles (1710m). From this point ascent to the last big peak on Pyrenean Haute Route the Pic de Canigou (2784m) from where it´s just a bit over the 50 kilometers to the Mediterranean sea. Enjoy the amazing views in Catalonia and France and especially to the Mediterranean sea. Descent to Refuge Des Cortales (2150m) for a night, but rather enjoy a tent as this refuge can be often very crowded.
Time: 10 h 00 min
Ascent: 1240 m
Descent: – 1310 m
Day 32: Refugio des Cortales – Valley Ribera del Terme
As we are moving to the end most of the day means a lot of descent over Maison Forestiére de l’Estanyol (1479m) and Col de la Cicére(1731m) to Arles-sur-tech (282m). To not get bored last ascent will lead You to Col de Paracolls (930m) and then just find a place to sleep in the valley Valley Ribera del Terme (880)
Time: 10 h 30 min
Ascent: 900 m
Descent: – 2170 m
Day 33: Valley Ribera del Terme – Church Saint-Martin de l´Albére
The last demanding day when You will ascent and descent, but maybe also the most boring day when You will have to cross the highway. and enter civilization. So ascent to Col de Sant Martí (1400m) and continue on the ridge over Coll del Pou de la Neu (1250m) to Refuge de les Salines (1053m). From there go down to Las Illas (550m) and to commercial highway border Col Perthus (280m). If You are not fun of Duty-Free shops run a bit up to hide in Church Saint-Martin de l´Albére (600m) for a night.
Time: 10 h 30 min
Ascent: 1376
Descent: – 1088 m
Day 34: Valley Ribera del Terme – Church Saint-Martin de l´Albére
The last ascent on the Pyrenean Haute Route is to Pic Noulous (1250m) and on the ridge to Puig de Pradets (1175m). After lovely views descent to the seashore to Baynuls-Sur-Mer.
Time: 6 h 00 min
Ascent: 650
Descent: – 1250 m
Last peak before the end 
Catalonian street party
Conclusion
Once You finalize this hardcore trip You will definitely not be the same again. I personally lost over 10 kg in one month, but prepare it will change you also mentally. HRP is the best if You wish to hide away from people and have enough time for Yourself or find new interesting people or inspiration.
Whatever your motivation is, definitely go for the Pyrenean Haute Route and enjoy it on maximum!
