Route and current position of Barmaley: Logbook: DAY 1: 28.3.2026 – Saturday: Kremik – Night cruise direction Biševo Arrival to Marina Kremik in Croatia. Chek in to the sailboat Barmaley...
It was time to leave the Iron Gates. In the morning we visited the last gas station on the water in the village of Eselentia. The wind was getting stronger and we got to the Iron Gates 1 lock. The operators in Serbia and Romania do not respond to the radio. Not even to the phones. We were lucky. A convoy of about 2×3 boats with a tugboat was just passing. We stood against the wall and a lock worker came to arrange a passage for us. Iron Gates 1 is a lock divided into two parts. After the lock we stopped in Drobeta Turnu, where the customs officers checked us and found out what? That we did not have correct papers. Not our fault, but the customs officer in Moldova Veche. After a short arrest and clarification with Moldova, they let us go. Another problem occurred at the Iron Gates 2 lock. But the Serbians are locking down and the Romanians are locking up… Seriously! The Serbs are classically not responding to anything. VHF and phone… Help came from the Romanian border police. With our combined efforts we managed to wake up the dam keeper, call him and let him lock us through. Night fell at anchor on the Bulgarian side near the village of Košava.
The Iron Gates are too beautiful to just slip through. So the next day we spent on land exploring the places with a local taxi-guide. We went to Banat to a Czech village where Czech-speaking people still live. They have a Romanian-Czech school and restaurant U Medvěda cooks Czech food and drafts Czech beer. In the evening, anchor again in the same bay by the statue of King Decebalus in Marconia.
Another key point of the expedition was the exit from Serbia and the entry into Romania into the EU. The exit from Serbia went quite smoothly in Velike Gradiste. The entry into Romania in Moldova Veche was also relatively trouble-free. They just made us wait for customs officers for an hour to tell them that we were carrying 4 beers. They don’t care about captain’s licenses, so we enter the Iron Gate. Breathtaking scenery, steep mountains, castles, and a statue of King Decebalus. Anchoring right in the bay by the king is a reward.
A relatively short cruise from Belgrade to Velike Gradiště to the marina at Srebno Jezero. One of the most popular tourist destination in Serbia. This place is located at the entrance of the Iron Gate gorge. An afternoon attempt to visit Golubac castle was blocked by opening hours. Open every day! Except Mondays. In the evening we brought in more petrol by taxi and replenished our water and other supplies before entering the Iron Gate.
In the morning, we replenished our provisions for the next few days and with a hangover we set off down the Danube. The journey didn’t take long, just over 2 hours to Belgrade. Ochsner glides like a king. There we filled up the tank. Maybe the last gas station on the water. We took a ride down the Sava in a glide. So we were shouted by the water police for speeding. Later we grounded while entering the marina. After an unsuccessful attempt, we dropped the anchor in the Belgrade shoulder of Donau.
In the morning, right after setting sails, we hit the bottom while trying to get to the marina for gasoline. Thanks God, local fishermen pulled us back out to the river. What followed was a difficult navigational section. Buoys in the middle of the fairway, or on the shore, the fairway on the sand, sharp turns. On top of all of that, a strong crosswinds. After about 140 km, we landed in Novi Sad. In the evening, we spent the night in a fish restaurant and at a disco in a Serbian company.
A day full of expectations. We all know that we are going without proper documents, or rather papers that wouldn’t fully authorize us to move on the river. After arriving in Mohács, where a major problem was not expected when leaving Hungary, the problem arose. They said Polish papers for the boat. They said we don’t have the technical certificate for the boat. So a fine of 200 EUR. Thanks, they said we shouldn’t return to Hungary. The most frightened were the ones from the Serbian Captaincy. There was no pier there for landing, so we anchored. Fortunately, the process at the customs office in Bezdan was not problematic at all. They were only interested in the papers from the boat, which they approved and passports. Some driver’s licenses for the boat didn’t even check after that. In the evening, we dropped anchor at a sandy island near Apatin.
We said goodbye to the bikes and left them at the Wiking marina. We then filled the tanks to the rim and took another 40 liters in canisters with us. Then a longer journey through Budapest to the famous resort of Baja – Viera, our previous boat cemetery. We sadly parked at the same pier as Viera’s last anchorage.
Morning walk around Budapest and sightseeing. Later repair of gummi boat and shopping of supplies for next days of cruising.
The bike trip started with a train ride to Štúrovo. From there via Esztergom to the viewpoint what is said to be the most beautiful viewpoint in Hungary – Prédikálószék. The trip ended with a fall in Szentendre. Dana and Laura arrived in the evening.
The morning lazyness turned into an afternoon Domau swimming session. In the afternoon we left Nagymaros for the Wiking marina in Budapest. The passage to the marina with a depth of 0.5m was completely on edge with our poor Ochsner SRX30. In the evening we enjoyed another swimming session in the pool on the boat in the marina.
Morning stop at the Čunovo marina. Fill up on petrol, water, recharge the batteries. Finally, say goodbye to Bianca, Tibor and Luti, who helped us a lot. The journey continued through the Gabčíkovo channel in the waves and further through the waterlock without waiting. The plan was to end the 160km cruise near the town of Nagymaros, but while trying to enter the marina we got stuck. Fortunately, no damage to the propeller. We pulled out of the place in a rubber boat and crossed back to the village of Dunapart, where we spend the night on a buoy.
Visiting Bratislava and meeting the entire Bratislava boat gang. We survived the scorching heat of 40 degrees Celsius by rowing together in 7 boats on the Jarovecké rameno.
Saying goodbye to the beautiful Wachau was made easier by meeting and getting along with Karel near Tulln an der Donau, where we refueled. Sailing through Vienna and the last canal through the Freudenau lock, which gave us a pass to Slovakia. Here we met Luti and Tibor, who willingly pulled us to the sandy beach on Šúgovský špic, where we dropped anchor and enjoyed the evening in the Slovak company.
Two days full of cycling in one of the most beautiful areas on the Danube. The wine region offered us many steep climbs and views of the landscape. Visit to the famous Melk abbey and Durnstein abbey, lots of ruins and the highest hill in the area Jauerling.
A day full of frustration from the Austrian establishment. Firstly a routine check at the Aschach lock turned into official bullying. Of course, we know that we do not have valid and sufficient documents. Sending us to Linz to the Bauhaus to buy fire extinguishers with a check, a lifebuoy, a first aid kit and a registration number on board the boat. Later they pushed temself to check it after another 50 km is really overkill. The highlight of the day of cruising was the interrogation in the Wallsee lock control room and the subsequent report to the Czech Republic. After successfully completing the ban on driving motor vehicles, I expect a ban on driving vessels. Arrival at the marina in Spitz and der Donau after 170 km just before dark.
Challenging cycling trip in the vicinity of perhaps the most beautiful place on the Danube, Schlögener Schlinge. Visiting several vantage points on the Danube loop. Unfortunately, by the end of the day, the boat was no longer transporting, and the journey stretched along the via ferrata with the bikes on the back. Mandatory arrival at the marina after 11 p.m.
On the first day we had 220 km down the Danube. Due to the huge current on the river full of holidaymakers, the progress was initially slow. We also had to pass through 6 locks. Mostly without waiting. About halfway through the day we were caught in a storm, which we weathered by mooring at the shore. The first problems came. The fuel gauge in the tank stopped working. By waiting for the last lock Jochenstein, we bridged into the night. We had to drive the last 17 km in the dark with only lights and instruments. Anchoring in Marina Schlogener schlinge.
Route and current position of Barmaley: Logbook: DAY 1: 28.3.2026 – Saturday: Kremik – Night cruise direction Biševo Arrival to Marina Kremik in Croatia. Chek in to the sailboat Barmaley...
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